Hoek van Holland

Along side Berlin, I'd say the hook of Holland is another of my travel staples. I've been here more times than I remember. 

My day started with a final cull of luggage before the stress of English trains. I got ride of some almost empty toiletries and a now slightly mouldy round the edges sandwich box. Apart from that I'm travelling fairly light so there isn't much to cull. I did however chuck the knickers with hole in them leaving me with just enough clean pairs to make it home. 

Packed up I checked out and headed off to the station. Early enough to not worry but for once, only an hour before the train was due. 

The station was rammed. Notices about not giving money to the newspaper sellers (they were rather pushy, I had to roll out the teacher voice for an authoritative 'No.  Thank you.') and to not get to the platform too early. Well, forget that. I've been victim to the Hbf lifts before. Standing there timing it, it took a lady with a buggy 10 minutes to get to the platform.  As soon as my platform was confirmed I made my way there. The queuing and the down up down up up taking the 10 minutes predicted. On the platform I joined the other bikes waiting to go to Amsterdam. 

And the rest of the journey was fairly simple. Into Amsterdam after a journey with a double seat to myself. Then the train to Den Haag from the same platform. 

After getting off at The Hague and stopping for groceries I cycled the 12 miles to the campsite. When booking I'd made a note that I'd be there late. 

I was rather glad I did because the woman at the closed reception told me they were full and that they didn't usually accept late arrivals. I politely pointed out that I was staying anyway. She showed me on a map where they may possibly be spaces. 

I've honed my space finding skills on Czech campsites this holiday. I had no doubt I would find somewhere. As it turned out, there really was no problem at all. Spaces abounded and I was soon set up for a last night under canvas. 

Berlin

If you've been reading this blog for a while, you'll know I've been to Berlin quite a few times. Even before I started cycling. It's a city I enjoy and I find it familiar and relaxing. It's almost always on the way home and I think that gives it a feeling of comfort. 

Having said all this, I'm not an expert on Berlin and its many cultural aspects. I just quite like it. Today I only had one destination on my mind - Yarn Over. Yarn over is a destination yarn shop (of course there are such things) and I have a project I need to shop for. 

I got my 24 hour travel ticket and got on a tram. First port of call obviously the wool shop. After lots of umming and aahing, and a yarn base based chat I managed to find the colours I wanted. Happy with my purchase I headed off next to get my new term note book then some tasty Tibetan vegan dumplings. My tastebuds positively singing at the variety of edible (to me) food on offer. 

After that I wasn't sure what I wanted to do. I'd decided that I didn't fancy a 'place', rather just somewhere to relax. So I googled interesting places to have coffee and made my way to the U Bahn. I found the little coffee shop - but bought a lemonade. I sat and knitted in the community graveyard garden and congratulated myself on a good choice. 

On the way back to the hotel I passed a Gemuse Kebab place and got a takeaway for tea. Another tasty treat to round off the day. 

Berlin

 Trains eh? 

This holiday I have been quite careful to remove as much stress as possible from my train journeys. Trying my best to not have more than one connection in a journey and timing them so I don't feel worried or rushed about getting up, packing up and making my way to the station. 

Apart from the difficulties of actually getting on the train, this seems to be working well. Apart from today. 

Of all my train connections this is the one that missing it would have cost the most financially, and the odds of finding another bike space the next day were very limited. 

We all know that train platforms can be tricky things. They usually involve lifts and time must be given to getting in between where you are and where you are going. Well, today at Brno I think was the most stressful platform embarkation ever. I arrived at the station a good hour early, watched as each train was given a platform. Scoped out the layout (confused by platform numbers and platform sections also having numbers) found the lifts etc. The minutes ticked by. 15 minutes to go, 10, 5, train due, train due five minutes ago and then eventually train has platform. Obviously it's the down and up version and there is station chaos. I rushed as fast as I could. First lift fine, second lift not exactly bike sized but lifting up the front wheel and breathing in I made it, just. On the platform in a panic I asked for the bike space and the guard pointed to the end of the train. Getting there I showed my reservation when asked only to be told the bike carriage was at the front. These are long trains. Lucky I'm feeling fit as I ran the length of the train watching all other passengers board and hearing whistles. 

I made it but, I cannot emphasise how much this was an 'only just' moment. The train setting off as my door - the last one open, closed. 

Once I was on board I found my bike space taken so propped it on the side. I sat on the floor until the ticket inspector had okayed things (I'd made the booking complicated by reserving the bike space just in case and buying the ticket separately after cancelling another) and okayed the location of the bike. After that I bounced round the carriage as various people claimed seats at various points in the journey. That included a newly wed couple from Carlisle. 

At least my journey was a to b with b being the last stop. That made life easier. Arriving at Berlin and disembarking remarkably calmly I wasn't impressed to find the lifts out of order. Having a healthy British respect for escalators I didn't want to clamber on with my loaded bike, instead I did a couple of journeys carrying everything up the stairs.  (Writing this the next day I blame this part of the journey for the crick in my neck and my inability to even see, never mind look over, my right shoulder.)

The hotel was nice and near the station (again part of my plan to simplify things) and I checked in quickly. I went back out to get a takeaway, astounded by the none falafel/fried Gouda options. Then I settled in for the evening ready for a day out tomorrow. 

Brno

 A relaxing day. 

I went to the park and wandered up the hill to Špilberk Castle. From there I was treated to great views across Moravia. 

The castle was often a prison in its history and the cells are now used for well presented but text heavy exhibits. The upper floors are dedicated to Czech art and were largely deserted. 

After my afternoon in the castle I went back to the hotel and sorted my gear ready for travel tomorrow. Then I went out to find something for tea. Not being in the mood for Smažený sýr I tried several before I settled for the one I ate at on my first night. 

Brno

 

An art day today, escaping the heat and enjoying robots serving coffee.  It's been quite quiet, with the city livening up at night, everyone relaxing outside bars.  Although Edinburgh tries its best to recreate a European cafe culture I don't think it's ever going to manage with the Northern Europe climate. 

Peter Paul Reubens, Medusa 

Displayed in the oddest way. Took me a while to build up the courage to move the curtains - I was very well supervised throughout my visit - when I did the reflections on the glass made it difficult to see detail. 

The white glass room at the design museum 

DEMON OF GROWTH II, Kristof Kintera, Things are literally mushrooming before our eyes like a time bomb in a society of excess. Much turns into rubbish without being used at least once.

Marie Filippovová, Dreams and Realities, 

Brno

 

A day for sight seeing and getting to know the city. 

Firstly the Brno Dragon, a creature that terrorised the city and was eventually poisoned and stuffed.  Some claim this isn't a dragon, nor that it was caught and stuffed.

Then a trip to the Capuchin Crypt to see the mummies  bodies of monks preserved by a quirk of nature rather than design.  Again these serve as a moment mori,  'what you are we were, what we are you will become'.  A sign on the way out urges you to 'not delay good and important things'.

A walk up to the cathedral but not up the tower. 

Then a trip to Kostnice u sv. Jakuba to see one of the largest ossuary in Europe - second only to the catacombs in Paris.  This was rediscovered in 2001.  The bones were cleaned and rearranged, only one section left as they were.  Again, an ode to death and its inevitability.  Interesting to think this collection was recently curated.

In the evening I took myself out and finally found an alternative to fried cheese - a very good veggie burger.

Brno

 

The ride to Brno

One of the reasons I didn't rush to leave Mikulov was my proximity to Brno.  I had thought about breaking the journey at a lake but, even the long way round that was two very short days. My calculations put my hotel at 56km away, a normal day's distance with hills so a breeze on the flat.

I did panic slightly when I saw the proposed route - right along a bike free A Road or a 15k diversion (70+ is the preferred distance of a 30 something none car owning me) I remembering my last A Road journey (through the fields for a few miles) so I did through recognisance. I found a definite paved road for most of the way and using the satellite layer was even able to see a few bikes on it.  All maps agreed it was possible. 

Setting off in the morning I was delighted when I saw many other bikes on the road- they all must be going somewhere right?

So, I zoomed along. Nice and flat, paved roads, no navigation. Over the lake and into the nature reserve. I watched fish jumping and a pair of massive eagles soaring over head.

Turning a corner, unfortunately into my onward direction of travel, I hit a head wind. As it's the first of the whole holiday I can't complain but that and a general upward slope did hike up the resistance somewhat. Something I feel in my poor aging knees. 

Apart from the push against forces, the rest of the ride was uneventful. One stop to eat the potato salad lunch (ants had found their way into one end and so several potatoes were sacrificed) I'd made myself yesterday and then onto the city. 

Just the one route barre and an easy navigation round that. I arrived at the hotel mid afternoon. Checking in, discussion about bike security and rather a long process to transfer everything I have with me to the fourth floor in a tiny lift - including said bike. 

One shower later and off to mooch around.