Metz

Amsterdam to Metz.  Lucky I like trains too. 

I packed up fairly rapidly when it looked like rain, took the little ferry across to the station and treated myself to breakfast. A little kerfuffle finding the lift but overall an easy start. 

I had a luxurious double seat all to myself for the whole journey to Koln. I knitted, listened to a book and dozed the journey away. Arriving a little over 20 minutes late to apologies in three languages I made my next connection with ease.

Switching from an ICE to a plain old IC the facilities weren't quite as luxuriant (although far easier to board). I spent the journey watching every single person be flummoxed by the toilet locks.  This train was delayed too. Lots of apologies in lots of languages and this time connection missed. 

I found an alternative route and made my way to the platform after first checking my ticket was good for such changes. 

I have a question for the good people of Luxembourg City: who does all the ironing?  I don't think I've ever been anywhere where - especially on a hot day - everyone looked so perfectly put together. Not a wrinkle, not a stain, perfect white shirts everywhere. Even the gym boys had their brand new trainers nestled on shiny black leather bags. No one was sweating. Everyone just looked very tidy. Obviously I stuck out like a sore thumb. 

Getting my scruffy self on the train to Metz I told a couple of kids to move their scooters out of the bike space. I can pull off commanding French only when stressed. I was impressed by his quick response and polite reply. It was only later when a distressed man came looking for his scooter that it became clear they had been working together to steal it. 

After that drama (well not much drama, the train and station were remarkably free of staff so I stood around for a bit then bade a polite goodbye.) A quick ride through the town and onto the site only half an hour late.  I've pitched up next to the river, had a very cold shower, found my insect spray and promised myself a long lie in tomorrow.

Amsterdam (again)

I do like ferries. Lucky really as I don't like flying. 

Disembarking was far simpler than I'd thought,  I was all prepared for queues and complicated passport procedures. There had even been an announcement telling foot passengers all about it. Turns out the car exit doesn't have the technology so, security be damned, we sailed through passport control. 

Similar to the journey from train to boat in the Uk, I'm not a huge fan on the ride into Amsterdam.  It's longer so there is more time to feel guilty about not training and, more to the point, it's a ride into a city so navigation is a bugger.  

It always takes me a while to tune in, get the feel for roundabouts and the like.  I cause confusion at first when I wait for cars, it takes a few tries before I remember that bikes truly have priority.  After 10 miles I was looking for somewhere to stop.  I needed to locate sun cream and a sun hat as well as top up my water.  I turned off to a likely looking building only to realise it was a boat crossing.  Nothing ventured, nothing gained, I hopped on board and headed over to the other side.  Over there I found a cafe, water and that sun cream.

I set off again and I must say, the boat gamble worked out well. I was in the country and leafy suburbia for most of the journey. Hitting the centre I stuck mainly to one road and I made it to the campsite far quicker than usual. 

I'll tell you what was not quicker than usual, putting up my tent. Some wally (me) had very carefully taken all the components apart and possibly forgotten a little how they went together again. Much banging, clattering and muttering ensued but finally it all clicked into place.

On this first night I always unpack and repack, check what I've got and curse myself for forgetting something I need.  This time that went reasonably well.  I've not bought too much superfluous baggage and I don't seem to have forgotten much.  Minor panic over phone charging but replacing a dodgy cable (that autocorrected to deoxygenated camel, which then turned into depressed camel and I was very tempted to try and weave both into the story.  I did once see a camel on the side of the road but that was in France, not today.  He looked well oxygenated but as a circus member I'm fairly sure he was a bit depressed.) won't be hard.

Arriving early afternoon and pitching in the shade means I've had a relaxing afternoon, interrupted only briefly by a drumming circle.   I headed to the shops for train snacks and to replace that cable then settled in for my first night under canvas. 

We're back

We're back on the road. The gang is all here, the bike still affectionately known as Nordie (mark 4) Norris (the original and only, he came on the JOGLE and he's here now) the polar bear key ring and of course me. 

I set off early, first by train into Edinburgh then down to Newcastle.  

I never enjoy the ride from town to the ferry - it's hard work with lots of turns and quite a bit of glass.  Part of my problem is that it's pretty confronting, if I'm not feeling fit I know it on that ride.  Every year I plan to train on a loaded bike and I never do. But apparently this year I have trained enough off a loaded bike and it didn't feel too bad. I've given up trying to fit rides into the commute after falling out with the train and instead I've taken to late evening rides round the lanes.  To my surprise (I hate a circular ride) I've really enjoyed them. I've racked up the miles without even noticing.  

The one thing the journey from station to ferry has in its favour is the Geordie people.  I don't think I've done any other ride where people are as happy and friendly.  It's really noticeable and makes the miles tick quickly away.

As ever, I got to the port a few hours early but as someone who's always late, it's the lesser of two evils.  Check in and boarding then off for a doze before sailing.  I went on deck to say goodbye to the UK then went to the bar.  The Scottish lads were out in force, cheery and obviously out for the night.  I went back to my cabin for a few hours. Had a picnic, a knit and a read.  When I returned to the bar  they were still there. Long after I'd switched to virgin cocktails they were taking the dance floor by storm. A brief break - forced by the captain threatening boat jail if they kept swinging from the ceiling- and they carried on until the last song somehow persuading the band to close with a full blown head banging heavy metal number. 

I went back to my cabin where I slept like a log.

Hoek van Holland

Along side Berlin, I'd say the hook of Holland is another of my travel staples. I've been here more times than I remember. 

My day started with a final cull of luggage before the stress of English trains. I got ride of some almost empty toiletries and a now slightly mouldy round the edges sandwich box. Apart from that I'm travelling fairly light so there isn't much to cull. I did however chuck the knickers with hole in them leaving me with just enough clean pairs to make it home. 

Packed up I checked out and headed off to the station. Early enough to not worry but for once, only an hour before the train was due. 

The station was rammed. Notices about not giving money to the newspaper sellers (they were rather pushy, I had to roll out the teacher voice for an authoritative 'No.  Thank you.') and to not get to the platform too early. Well, forget that. I've been victim to the Hbf lifts before. Standing there timing it, it took a lady with a buggy 10 minutes to get to the platform.  As soon as my platform was confirmed I made my way there. The queuing and the down up down up up taking the 10 minutes predicted. On the platform I joined the other bikes waiting to go to Amsterdam. 

And the rest of the journey was fairly simple. Into Amsterdam after a journey with a double seat to myself. Then the train to Den Haag from the same platform. 

After getting off at The Hague and stopping for groceries I cycled the 12 miles to the campsite. When booking I'd made a note that I'd be there late. 

I was rather glad I did because the woman at the closed reception told me they were full and that they didn't usually accept late arrivals. I politely pointed out that I was staying anyway. She showed me on a map where they may possibly be spaces. 

I've honed my space finding skills on Czech campsites this holiday. I had no doubt I would find somewhere. As it turned out, there really was no problem at all. Spaces abounded and I was soon set up for a last night under canvas. 

Berlin

If you've been reading this blog for a while, you'll know I've been to Berlin quite a few times. Even before I started cycling. It's a city I enjoy and I find it familiar and relaxing. It's almost always on the way home and I think that gives it a feeling of comfort. 

Having said all this, I'm not an expert on Berlin and its many cultural aspects. I just quite like it. Today I only had one destination on my mind - Yarn Over. Yarn over is a destination yarn shop (of course there are such things) and I have a project I need to shop for. 

I got my 24 hour travel ticket and got on a tram. First port of call obviously the wool shop. After lots of umming and aahing, and a yarn base based chat I managed to find the colours I wanted. Happy with my purchase I headed off next to get my new term note book then some tasty Tibetan vegan dumplings. My tastebuds positively singing at the variety of edible (to me) food on offer. 

After that I wasn't sure what I wanted to do. I'd decided that I didn't fancy a 'place', rather just somewhere to relax. So I googled interesting places to have coffee and made my way to the U Bahn. I found the little coffee shop - but bought a lemonade. I sat and knitted in the community graveyard garden and congratulated myself on a good choice. 

On the way back to the hotel I passed a Gemuse Kebab place and got a takeaway for tea. Another tasty treat to round off the day. 

Berlin

 Trains eh? 

This holiday I have been quite careful to remove as much stress as possible from my train journeys. Trying my best to not have more than one connection in a journey and timing them so I don't feel worried or rushed about getting up, packing up and making my way to the station. 

Apart from the difficulties of actually getting on the train, this seems to be working well. Apart from today. 

Of all my train connections this is the one that missing it would have cost the most financially, and the odds of finding another bike space the next day were very limited. 

We all know that train platforms can be tricky things. They usually involve lifts and time must be given to getting in between where you are and where you are going. Well, today at Brno I think was the most stressful platform embarkation ever. I arrived at the station a good hour early, watched as each train was given a platform. Scoped out the layout (confused by platform numbers and platform sections also having numbers) found the lifts etc. The minutes ticked by. 15 minutes to go, 10, 5, train due, train due five minutes ago and then eventually train has platform. Obviously it's the down and up version and there is station chaos. I rushed as fast as I could. First lift fine, second lift not exactly bike sized but lifting up the front wheel and breathing in I made it, just. On the platform in a panic I asked for the bike space and the guard pointed to the end of the train. Getting there I showed my reservation when asked only to be told the bike carriage was at the front. These are long trains. Lucky I'm feeling fit as I ran the length of the train watching all other passengers board and hearing whistles. 

I made it but, I cannot emphasise how much this was an 'only just' moment. The train setting off as my door - the last one open, closed. 

Once I was on board I found my bike space taken so propped it on the side. I sat on the floor until the ticket inspector had okayed things (I'd made the booking complicated by reserving the bike space just in case and buying the ticket separately after cancelling another) and okayed the location of the bike. After that I bounced round the carriage as various people claimed seats at various points in the journey. That included a newly wed couple from Carlisle. 

At least my journey was a to b with b being the last stop. That made life easier. Arriving at Berlin and disembarking remarkably calmly I wasn't impressed to find the lifts out of order. Having a healthy British respect for escalators I didn't want to clamber on with my loaded bike, instead I did a couple of journeys carrying everything up the stairs.  (Writing this the next day I blame this part of the journey for the crick in my neck and my inability to even see, never mind look over, my right shoulder.)

The hotel was nice and near the station (again part of my plan to simplify things) and I checked in quickly. I went back out to get a takeaway, astounded by the none falafel/fried Gouda options. Then I settled in for the evening ready for a day out tomorrow. 

Brno

 A relaxing day. 

I went to the park and wandered up the hill to Špilberk Castle. From there I was treated to great views across Moravia. 

The castle was often a prison in its history and the cells are now used for well presented but text heavy exhibits. The upper floors are dedicated to Czech art and were largely deserted. 

After my afternoon in the castle I went back to the hotel and sorted my gear ready for travel tomorrow. Then I went out to find something for tea. Not being in the mood for Smažený sýr I tried several before I settled for the one I ate at on my first night.