Rondenkirchen

One of my absolute favourite things about camping is waking up, lighting the stove and putting the trusty old kettle* on - making coffee then wrapping up in the sleeping bag and watching the world go by. These opportunities have been few and far between over the past couple of weeks because waking up in a tent fully blessed by the sun is very much like waking up in an oven. But this morning, this morning it rained.

 It really rained. I made my coffee snuggled up and watched as very little happened, everyone else choosing the same approach to the morning.  

Obviously, I couldn't stay there forever, I have places to be and as the rain cleared up, so did I. 

I set off along the Rhine, far less industrial than yesterday and rather pretty in parts. I enjoyed a few snack sitting on benches - no need for shade with proper cloud cover - and then turned off the river and into the city. It was a city that hit fast. It's busy, noisy and chaotic, pedestrians, cyclists, drivers, trams heading in all directions. It felt like urban German had suddenly exploded all around me. 

Once I got off the main traffic street the city opened up into squares and cafe lined shopping streets. I wish I'd had a bit more time to properly explore but I only had 2 things on my agenda - food and the Beethoven museum. Lunch was a poke bowl (very much in vogue here, luckily because they're a favourite of mine) then the museum. It was packed with facsimiles of documents and music recordings. There were a few of his instruments (including ear trumpets in increasing sizes) but the most recommended part, a basement of treasures has been closed to those not on a tour. The museum has an audio guide / app thing, not my most favourite way to share information. When I'm in a museum I want to scan to get the information I'm looking for, not listen to a heartwarming welcome from the director. 

Anyway, off I went. I decided today to move away from the river and followed a different route out of town. I quite enjoyed the change despite the miles (maybe - just checked 4.4km2 ) of the Shell Energy and Chemicals Park. A bit like cycling though Grangemouth I suppose. 

Once I'd passed the park and negotiated a lift (Google maps believing a station was the appropriate place to cross a railway line -not wrong I suppose) it was a short cycle through pretty, expensive looking houses to what is a rather nice site. 

P.s. I've just been to the shower. It is a site full of parakeets. Not my immediate guess when listening to the bird shrieks, makes a change from last night's frogs. 

*A kettle I love so much, I made a replica of it in my ceramics class. 

Remegen

It's raining!  That's exciting enough to be the whole post don't you think? It's half seven and still 28 degrees but surely rain is a sign that things might be cooling a bit?  For the first time I'm writing to you from inside my tent.

Today marked a change in my trip. I said goodbye to the vineyards of the Moselle and started following the Rhine instead. Although the start of the Rhine is very romantic and beautiful (see summer 2014) once the river gets going it's like an industrial motorway connecting factories and towns. I was hoping that this bit - the famed Rhine Gorge might offer a bit more but that's not what has stuck out so far. 

Once I navigated my way out of Koblenz I have been following big roads, goods laden railway tracks or navigating my way round factories. This was interspersed by bouts of river side paths and side streets in little towns. 

I was making good progress until a headwind hit me. The wind was the kind of  you get before a thunderstorm so I cycled along trying to decide if I needed to hunt for my much neglected cagoule.  Luckily, unluckily, I'm not sure which, the rain stayed ahead of me all the way to the campsite. 

Koblenz

Another rest day?  I'm spoiling myself this summer!  The Moselle has joined the Rhine and the planned part of my travels is done. Next I'll be following the Rhine, although Cologne has been on my list for a long time, the Rhine hasn't. But I've done the beginning and the end so I might as well do the middle.  It should be well signed and relatively flat and it goes in the right direction.  

After a decent night's sleep in a rather sweltering hotel - it might have been hot but at least it was quiet, I've been on a lot of noisy sites - I had a slow morning. 

I did some washing, sorted through my bags and obviously had a bit of a knit. When I got hungry I decided I might as well go and explore. 

Koblenz, interesting as it is, isn't packed with must see sight seeing opportunities. This is a pleasant change and provides a chance to just relax. I wandered through the Aldstadt and mooched in and out of shops. I stopped for coffee and a sandwich where looked round a church or two and generally explored.

 

Sneaky peak at the Rhine before setting off along it tomorrow 

Once I'd had my fill (by which I mean I'd got too hot) I headed along the Rhine, past the castle and back to my hotel. 

Koblenz

I kept it simple today. Once the temperatures move beyond 30, I've no tolerance for faffing, so faff we did not. 

I woke up in my shady tent, had coffee and a banana then packed up. I was on the road nice and early so for the first hour at least, it was quite a comfy ride. 

The second hour may have been a bit warmer and, although I'd planned a lunch stop, I just couldn't face sitting in a cafe dripping sweat into my hot food.  And salads are a pointless cycling meal.  I contented myself with rice pudding, sweets and more bananas.  

With that attitude it won't surprise you to hear that I was soon making my way out of the Moselle gorge (not going to lie, rather glad to be leaving the white railed meanders behind me) and into the last of the vineyards. 

As is ever thus, the last 5 miles were a bit of a killer. It was 32 degrees, I was hot and hungry and I probably should have had that proper stop. When it gets to three miles, I tell myself that's just the distance to the station, one mile - as I'd got to the city proper by then - was a lot of navigation and then ... boom, I'm here!  

Cochem

 Today I was a tourist. 

No, it's not a Kermit tribute. It's a lion with a visor, obviously. 

I cycled into town, had a massive sandwich and mooched round the shops. 

Then I caught the bus (get me, 2 buses in one trip, quite the expert now) and visited the castle. 

I took the obligatory English language tour with a delightful guide who mangled the translations wonderfully. 'You're welcome' sprinkled throughout the tour,  suspicious instead of superstitious, flowers planted in the shape of the town 'weapons' which I eventually understood as coat of arms.  It was like being shown around by a small enthusiastic crossword clue. 

The castle itself was very pretty rebuilt as it was in the 19th Century by a steel merchant. It had a whimsical filmic quality about it. 

I walked back down the hill, retrieved my bike and headed off to search out something for tea. 

Cochem

 It's been a bit on the warm side here.  It's still 'only' 31 but I feel like that's enough.  It can peak there thanks.   

Today I decided not to rush the morning, although I still got away at a good time it could have been earlier had I not had the second coffee.  I'm in a constant battle between rushing to beat the heat and not rushing so as not to be exhausted by said heat. 

The site was right on the route so after checking out (they have what I would describe as a stupid card system for the toilets and showers. I and my neighbours all forgot the cards at various points as campers often don't head to the facilities with their wallet and towel.  And I don't have pockets in my pyjamas.) I followed the path up a little then back to the river.   

I cycled along, I'd planned to stop for lunch again today but the first part of my route was a little short on restaurants. After consulting Google I found a little honesty cafe on an old wine cellar. The cake was good and the orange juice welcome. 

At this point in its journey, the river is a geography teachers dream.  It meanders though the gorge creating keyhole loops that double back on each other. All this loop the looping has made the day long. There is a train that goes through the rocks that cause the meander, it takes 4 minutes. It took me 25km. So a bit longer. 

Those loops on the map don't match those loops in reality, you think you're almost there but they go on and on and on. And on. You can always see the corner but you never quite reach it. 

I must have done eventually though because I looped a loop and found blessed shade. I stopped again, to eat, to drink and basically to have a bit of a nap on a park bench. 

I repeated that pattern a couple of times until at last the pretty town of Cochem came into view. I cycled right the way though and straight onto the campsite where after a very technical on line checkin - I found myself a shady pitch and settled down for the afternoon. 

Zell

Another day of blue skies and vineyards. This time with added old buildings. 

I got up at a reasonable time and set off on my way relatively early. First stop was Bernkastel-Kues, a town famous for its pretty half timber buildings. It was indeed full of half timber buildings, some at a slight angle. It was also very busy, the Riviera cruise (ship called Emily Brontë which I found a bit incongruous) was in town. 

After taking a few obligatory pictures I headed on. I'd resolved not to race the heat - if I'm too worried about getting too hot I end up too hot because I don't stop long enough to cool down - but I didn't want to linger too long. 

My lunchtime stop was Traben-Trarbach, another pretty town. I parked up my bike and found a cafe serving iced drinks and veggie food. I didn't rush and by the time I got back to my bike I felt quite rested.  

The second half of the day was much the same as the first. I looped around meanders doubling back on myself several times. This meant that the head wind was sometimes a cross wind and occasionally a tail wind.  

The heat did ramp up and at 30+ I was feeling it. I made sure to stop for snacks and water and by the time I arrived at the site I was boiling but ok.   

Although the site isn't exactly spacious pitches it is right on the river, full of evening shade and right in the path of an excellent breeze.