Bloody co. Durham. Never cycle there. Never.
I don't mind a long climb, a bit of a slog but after today, I hate little hills. Well, not that little (323m max) but up and down. I have come to hate a descent because that naturally means another ascent. I got lost for the first time around Consett and, also a first, I have had to rely on the compass for navigation. If I did find road signs at the 5 point cross roads they were to places not marked on my map. The gradients have been ridiculous and navigation a nightmare.
I felt good when I left Rochester, I decided to follow the Roman Road out and over towards Hexam and quickly fall out with their road building philosophy. I have never seen so many blind summits on one road.

Still, the up and downs are worth the effort. Not like Co. Durham.
I stop in Hexam and get some food. I mean to stop again in Consett but don't bother, to go into the town would mean a diversion and I am not sure it is worth the hassle. I stop instead to eat the last of my porridge bars after pushing my bike up some mighty gradient to get into the town.
I get lost in the lanes and begin to despair, I think of all the horror stories I have heard about Cornish hill and decide that most people don't cycle through the north east. They can't be as bad as this.
I come to wish I had stopped in Consett because after that it would have been a major diversion to find a cafe. After making my way through the evil little lanes (and I usually like a country road) passing one wedding and an apparent music festival, I pick up what I assume is the A68, signed in one direction but not mine, as if the way I am going is a foolhardy thing to do. Checking with the compass, just to be on the safe side, I take the road and am happy to be able to see where I am going and to see sensible, bigger hills. I stick to the quiet main road and arrive, rather late, at West Auck. I am delighted to see the town not only because it means no more silly hills but also because I am now officially past half way, on the home straight as it were.
The people who run the B & B are simply lovely. They show me to my room and make me a cuppa. We have a good chat and Kate (the owner) tells me she is a complimentary therapist. She kindly gives me a massage and I fall asleep relaxed.
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