A break

A quick review if the maps last night (a night interrupted by a drunk guy being lost outside my tent for an hour) showed that there was no need to go anywhere today. 

I had a lie in, drank a lot of coffee, had a look round the town (watch me fly up those hills when my luggage is at home), had lunch, lounged at the pool (rocking swimming cossie and cycling tan) and crocheted a bit.

 

The last day of cycling tomorrow sees me in Nantes to meet Steve followed by a week or two of motorised transport and luxury hotels. 

Montjean Sur Loire 1385 k

Today has been Loire-icious. The views have been lovely and the weather kind. I have cycled further than I planned (the original pick of site turned out to be another car park with verges hardly suited to the camper) but that leaves two (or even one) easy days to Nantes.  

There is little of note - out with the views. 

Let's see...In a late addition to the patchwork of brown, white, pink, blue that is my cycling self, I have burned my inner elbow; I've run out of soap; the woman in the supermarket actually checked the ingredients of the quiche before declaring it vegetarian. That made me very happy; I found the melange of cereals I've been looking for - a ricey proteiney mix of energy; I passed an old church complete with sign now functioning as a chicken coop;  I saw a windmill after days of map based promises that have come to nothing; I didn't run over the massive green cricket in my path; I watched a cat on top of a hay bale for a while before it lifted its wing thus proving that contact lenses are no match for glasses. 

An average day a velo. 

There have been a lot of scarecrows

Careful now

Your typical beautiful Loire-esque view

New road signage 

That made me giggle. I did ballet, I know what it actually means. It's also the name of a near by bridge. But still...It's the inverted commas.  

Gennes 1331km

That was a nicer day than I thought it was going to be. Woken by thunderous thunder at 6am I got up eventually ready for a soaking. By the time I left the site the sky was almost clear and my tent was almost dry. 

It took me a while to get into my stride and the humidity ensured that my stride was a sweaty one. I stopped at Candes for lunch but, contrarily, they weren't serving anymore. At 1.30. And they didn't do drinks without food.  I went on for a while and eventually the track took me off the road. 

I have a bit of an issue with the strange diversions this route sometimes takes one on and at first, this dirt track was one I was taking issue with. But soon the surface evened out enough for me to relax a bit and I was able to enjoy my surroundings. I followed a pair of dancing butterflies and tried without success to photograph dragon flies. I passed a man with a donkey all packed up with his camping stuff and in the end spent a happy hour relaxing, eating and reading. The shade had fooled me into thinking the day had cooled down. 

When I arrived at Saumur I found lots of building work going on and a bustling town centre. I had a look around and then carried on, pausing after a while to avail myself of the air-conditioning and wifi provided by McDonalds (which here is so much based around table service that going up to the till causes no end of confusion. But I only wanted a coffee and I dislike any automated thing that asks for my card before I make the order). 

I wifi'd and cooled and off I went again. I decided against the Mushroom Museum opting instead for the minature rock village. When the cashier told me I'd need a coat I could have hugged him. 

Finally I cycled on to Gennes. Which is where I am now. Safely installed, contemplating tea and planning tomorrow's travels. 

Although I probably shouldn't be using my bike as a foot rest. 

My yellow lunch which includes a Brie and Apple pizza type thing. 

Donkey man which a very patient French woman (we had a long conversation) felt was superb. 

Health and safety gone mad. 

Savonniers 1234 km ttt

The rest seems to have done me good. I've had a lovely day. Amboise is an interesting town and the chateau suitably impressive. I opted against the da Vinci experience and was slightly perturbed that I didn't get to see the da Vinci retail park. 

The rain came down in big spaced out drops just after lunch but the cooling effect was welcome. By the evening there was a tail wind ( I know, how exciting) so I found the last 10k a breeze. 

Leonardo's original burial place. 

Sunflowers

Evening sun 

Rest day 10k

I haven't done much. I've enjoyed riding a load free bike, realised that I've got quite a bit fitter (not surprisingly but with all the slightly adverse conditions and the weight of my bike it's hard to tell. I usually go off how far I go between breaks which is admittedly getting foolishly far. And far too reliant on cereal bars ). 

I cycled up to the retail park in the hope of finding the correct gas canister. Thus route hasn't exactly been big on big towns so I've not had much chance to look. Having located that (and some tea, and some toilet roll) I came back to the site. I did a bit of wifi-ing and then retired back to the tent.  

I'm all ready for the impending downpour and have the local restaurant in mind as a handy bolt hole. 

As the sun has calmed down my heat rash is slowly evaporating and the bites on my legs are getting less itchy. I am wearing normal people clean clothes and feeling altogether more human. 

I plan to have an unpresidented second rest day to do a little chateau tour before hitting the road on Thursday for the final push to Nantes where hotel based luxury awaits me. 

Evening plans

Blois 1104

I shan't reccomend the site in Orleans. Stay in a hotel, stay over the river but, don't stay there.  As the rain started a pouring I thought, it's ok. I'm safe in my tent. Nope. Water levels were that high that the entire site became a puddle, water just seeped up through the ground. I managed to keep most things dry through some quick evasive action and mainly luck but it did put me off my two night plan. 

The next morning I got up and cycled into Orleans. I'd have breakfast and then make up my mind. Nothing much was open (Monday half day) so I had coffee and then brought some socks. On arrival here I found that they had turned my already bite strewn feet a delightful shade of pink. 

When I got back at the site it was almost empty. I chatted to another cyclist and we agreed it was one of the worst places we'd stayed. 

I packed up my muddy gear and headed this way. Despite the unfavourable wind directions I had a lovely ride. I could do without the bizzare cycling diversions (which although apparently for safety usually end up with the crossing the traffic twice rather than just cycling along with it) but the paths were pleasant and it was filled with wildlife. I saw a dragonfly as big as a bird. 

Eventually I crossed over the river again into Chamboard. The smell of vineyards filled the air. I may well partake in a glass of the local wine, out of politeness you understand. 

I'm camped in a quiet corner of the site tucked away behind a massive yew tree. The wind is blowing but there are no really ominous clouds on the horizon. Hopefully there will be no repeat of last night's flood. 

The view as I wait for my pizza cooked in that little van

They like to keep you right

A little piece of home on a windy day

 

Sunny vineyards

Orleans 1000+ (I'm not going outside to look)

35km, pitched showered and visiting museums by 2. I could get used to days like this, to a point. 

I packed up anticipating rain which didn't arrive and headed out along the road to Orleans. I stopped a few times to admire the view but 35k is a decent 'leg' and so I mainly just headed here. The site is a tiny municipal one with again, little in the way of amenities. 

Once sorted, I headed back the way I came towards the old town centre. French Sundays are taken very seriously so there wasn't much going on. In my wanderings I came upon Joan of Arc's house and visited it. The ticket included entry to the historical museum and I headed there next. Then I went into the cathedral. It's very impressive both inside and out. 

After those three sights I felt I deserved a break and so sat with a coffee watch a stream of vintage cars drive past. They ranged from very old to 70s. Beyond that I can't tell you much. Some had really funky horns and all delighted a little boy there taking photos. 

I came back to the site just in time (again) as the heavens opened. The water level is so high that as the thunder struck and the rain poured water just seeped out of the ground. Very soon I was looking at a porch full of puddles with all my good and chattels piled optimistically on high. 

I weathered the storm and now the water has subsided. I'm not sure what will happen if it rains heavily again - actually I am sure but I don't care to think about it - but hopefully I won't float away. 

Foreboding clouds

The 1000th kilometre. As you can see, I celebrated with a sweet. 

Name the saint anyone?

Giant plant pots are very much in vogue. 

Chateauneuf sur Loire 981km ttt

What a lovely day. 

I thought when I got up and quickly packed away my tent in the drizzle that that would be it, rain for the day, but no. It was sunny for the most part with clouds and breezes keeping the heat at bay. 

I started off after a short ride with a coffee in Gien. The town was devastated in the war but has been rebuilt. I looked in the church as was going to look in the hunting museum at the chateau but it appeared closed. Excitingly I did  pick up a Loire by Bike guide in the tourist information office (never underestimate tourist information offices).  

Next stop on my trail was Sully for my first chateau visit. Not a very auspicious start but diverting. Obviously by 3pm it was too late to eat at the tempting 'pub' so I wandered on to my last stop via a supermarket. 

I arrived at the shops just as the rain started and managed to time my arrival at site between showers. Now it looks like it's settled in for the night and thunder is rolling about the sky. 

I'm sat on my brilliant little chair looking out at the grey skys ready for an evening of relaxation. 

I hate aqueducts despite their aesthetic and engineering qualities. This one was over a kilometre long and I walked all the way. 

The red brick chimneys of Gien reminded me of Coronation Street. 

Sully

A sign for all the directioners out there. I noticed the book on top as I took the photo. It's a journal full of scrawly handwriting and sketches. There was no name. It made me rather sad for its owner so I left them a note should they ever be reunited. 

 

Chantillon-sur-Loire 908km ttt

I think I've been cooked. 34 degrees is just that bit too hot for a day's bike riding. The weather obviously just can't make up its mind what to do as the next few days look fairly rain filled. But warm. Which represents a new meteorological challenge for the holiday. 

Today I had aimed to be a little further on but as I was beginning to believe that I was melting. (And the juice / water combo I was drinking was making me feel heartily sick) I turned into this little 2 star site. It's a field with some toilets and showers but that's all I need. 

I've been here since half three waiting for it to cool to a respectable temperature. I'm camped under a pine tree with a view of the fast flowing Loire and tomorrow's bike path. 

Goodness knows what was on my cup but this persistent wasp was determined to get it.  I started my day with a lap full of coffee in my efforts to persuade him away. In the end I gave in.  Other insect related news: 13 bites on my right foot. I had to stop at a shady bench and have a good itch. 

Looks very familiar. (See Danubevrekated bike posts). The directional sign is there for those who were contemplating, in their confusion, throwing themselves down the bank and into the canal. 

All wave at the hill town of Sancerre. Had it been a cooler day I would have tackled the hill to have a look. Instead I spent time in the lowly St-Satur. 

Obligatory sunflower photo. Always cheers me up. 

Couldn't resist. 

La Charite Sur Loire 835 km ttt

That was a warm one. 

I knew the weather had changed and so tried my best to set off early. I was packed by nine and then, one coffee later, off the site by 9.30. I went for a little look around the town and her churches and then had a good old explore of the one way system (which isn't really that complex.) Some time later I hit the open road and headed for Nevers, much of my cool weather early start wasted. 

The first part of the day was, predictably, canal orientated but I was eventually on 'normal' roads. Lucky as I turned off just before the path was shut for bridge building. Nevers turned out to be an interesting town with a reasonable take on lunch. I wandered the streets and looked around the cathedral. I decided against the Ducal palace despite the entrance (through the tourist information centre just in case you are ever as confussed as I) being filled with such exhibits as fish (which you couldn't really see through the condensation) pottery, archeological relics and bikes. I decided instead to get on. 

The last 20k to this lovely little town were quite hellishly hot. In my opinion the ideal cycling temperature rests between 19 and 24 degrees. Doubling temperature in a week is not acceptable and I'd rather we didn't cross the '30' boundary again. Not much chance of that. 

Arriving on site I was inundated with information. They operate a 2 person check in system. One does the admin and the other give you the codes and the map. Being on a bike and desperately in persuite of shade I promptly dropped all the little bits of paper. One camper looked at my sympathetically  'just arrived?' 

Still, their facilities are good. My food is in the fridge , iceblock in the freezer and charger in the wall. There is a special salon just for cyclists to do all these things.

Now, as my insect repellant is proving totally ineffectual I am turning in for the night. Sweet dreams! 

Hotchpotch of houses in Nevers. I suspect there may be a better architectural term than that.

Me and the Loire a Velo sign. Note the ear saving sun hat. 

La Charite sur Loire. Rather a pretty town. 

Decize 757km ttt

Now I remember!  This is what cycling in the summer feels like. 

A day of rolling along in the sunshine. The road almost traffic free. The countryside gentle and rolling. After 20k I was off the canal and into the lanes. Definitely my preferred option. 

My only problem was the three hour long siesta which had quite an impact on my plans. But, I coped. It's been warm but not too hot and regular application of suncream has rendered me un-lobster-like (although my knees are developing a very wonky striped effect and my shins are still whiter than white).

Tomorrow should involve more sightseeing and hopefully a more filling lunch than 2 bananas and a twix. 

Tree lined lanes

Blue skies

Old villages 

Washing and shampoo soaked toilet bag drying in the evening light. 

Digion day off 5km

There isn't much to do in Digion but, I don't really mind. 

I lounged around the tent for a while reading, drinking coffee, crocheting. Then I went into town. Things often close for lunch in France. Here they do so must emphatically. I looked at a famous canal viaduct and availed myself of the post office. It's building is one of the town's sites. I didn't go into the conservatoire as it didn't tickle my fancy. Instead I waited for lunch to be finished wandering around a church. 

Eventually my main port of call - the ceramic museum - re-opened. It is a museum in the good old fashioned sense of the word. The ceramics are quite literally piled to the rafters. There were three floors of examples of factory produced table wear, the occasional badly dressed dummy and a sparse English laminated sheet per room. I loved it!

On the way back to the site I bought the necessities - coffee, cheese, wine, bite cream - and then settled back in the shade with my book. 

I looked at the route a head for a while and -as it's longer than it planned for - toyed with the idea of the train the 100km to Nevers. I am fairly bored of canals. But, I think in the end I'll just keep going.

If this is part of the route I'm re thinking the train plan. 

To the rafters

The absolute necessities 

Digoin 673km ttt. (+10 because I forgot to put my computer on)

After a luxurious night's sleep and paying the none campsite type bill, I departed. 

I wasn't entirely sure where I was but as I was heading for a canal at the bottom of the hill then turning right, I was fairly sure I'd find myself. 

The weather was kinder, although there was still a head wind. It wasn't until I turned into that that I realised how tired my legs were. Luckily the locks at least were facing the correct direction. There weren't many of them but, little victories. 

Cycling through France on 14th July is eerily silent. Everything is closed (apart from a handy McDonald's at lunch time) and the roads are almost silent. Were it not for the people fishing I'd have been totally alone. 

I kept to the same road all day. I cycled on through the wind, which didn't seem as bad as yesterday and managed to average a reasonable pace. I was even able to freewheel occasionally. 

I came upon Paray-le-Monial and was rather surprised. It was busy. Turning when I could I found a beautiful small medieval town. I remembered then reading about this as a place of pilgrimage on the way to Lourdes. I locked up my bike, slipped on my handy 'decent' trousers and went to explore. 

I looked into the Basilica and then moved onto a chapel. There, in contradiction to the air of quiet contemplation being cultivated by visitors, a nun was busily scrubbing the staircase. Finally I visited another church, this time the home of a contemporary mosaic exhibition. Throughly cultured I headed back to my bike. 

I had been mulling over the relative benefits / detriments of 2 campsites througout the day. I have also composed a list of top 5 worst weather conditions; a post about why this was so and, early on in the day stopped to help a distressed touring bloke who had brought the wrong sized pump. He said that until I came he had been crying. So it's not just me. I composed a post about that too. I'll regale you with these at another time. 

Back to the sites. 

One site was in Paray-le-Monial. The other was here in Digion. The only real difference was distance and my tired legs. Digion has the psychological advantage of being on the Loire, my final river. As I'd seen most of what there was to see in Paray-le -Monial I decided to go that extra (5) miles. 

I'm not sure Digion really has much to offer. So far I've seen a supermarket (closed) and a swimming pool (closed). But, the site is friendly and I'm knackered so I'm staying an extra day. 

Lowering the tone 

Sacre Coure, Paray - le - Monial 

A nice hotel 601km ttt

The campsite was closed! Were this not a PG blog this post would start slightly differently. 

For the second time, I travel miles out of my way only to find the marked site has gone. It was up hill.  It was raining. It was the end of the day. I got there - no where near anywhere else I wanted to be and it was pigging closed. 

I'd have taken a photo but I was trying hard not to make a scene in the deserted car park. 

What can you do eh? I'd passed a rural gite ages ago but apart from that the road has been accomodationless. The next site was roughly 40km away so there you go. I head in that direction and hope. 

A little way down the hill was a TGV (fast train) station. Another torture. Just think of all the dry places I could go. But, with stations and golf course come HOTELS!  Ha ha. 

I didn't check the alternatives I just went straight for the first one I saw. 

This is why you bring a dress you see. Not only is it easy to slip on at the site but, you don't look a sight when eating at nice hotels. 

There are many benefits to a hotel.  One is a bath. I've got bruises on my bruises, saddle rash (which belated I realised linked to those shorts - I remember why- that I never where but until yesterday were the only dry ones.) and most bizzarley I have sunburn. How?  There's been no sun! 

As for the rest of the day, 1st 30km I went off route and had a great time. I explored little villages and generally had a change of scene. When I picked up the route again it was a canal climb. Then it turned a corner and was a windy canal climb.  So come silent site time I was a bit knackered. I hold on to hope. What goes up must go down. 

Anyway. I've eaten and washed and aired and now I'm relaxing with a glass of wine and the football. 

The owl is in that tree, somewhere. Ooh, I saw a Kite too. 

I spent a while watching this boat go through the lock. Considering all the canal time I've put in I'm surprised this is the first one. 

My kit, in case you ever wondered. Looking at it, a large part appears to be bags. 

The veggie special. The french continue to be flummoxed by meat free dishes. 

I am now going to spend a bit of time fact checking my map. 

Verdun-sur-le-Doubs 521km ttt

There is no more beautiful sight than washing hanging off your bike, bathed in the glow of evening sunlight. 

This is the time I thought would never come. This is the day the rain stopped. 

All a bit melodramatic bit good god, this is the first time I've seen the sun since ... Mulhouse? And even before then there were thunderstorms and rain. 

Today was a countryside day. I had my breakfast in Dole and then wandered along watercourses to here. I stopped to look around a few towns but didn't stay long. Instead I chose to eat picnics on the river banks watching the fish and birds. I've developed quite a liking for water boatmen. They remind me of Venice. 

Now I am at another 'la plage' campsite sandwiched between the Doubs and the canal.  The birds are singing, the sun is shining and all is right with the world. 

Note the still surface. When it rains really hard it looks like you can walk on it. 

Blue sky! Blue sky! This was an exciting moment. 

Lunch stop for Gorgonzola sandwich and wildlife watching. There was some sort of warbler warbling and lots of unidentified splashes. 

Heaven. Tomorrow I will wear clean, dry socks.